Garment pattern



May 26, 1964 E. v. WlLLIAMS GARMENT PATTERN Filed Dec. 17, 1959 INVENTOR. 625M102 V. WILLIAMS A T TOENE Y United States Patent 3,134,173 GARMENT PATTERN Eleanor V. Williams, 107 Betsy Brown Road, Port Chester, N.Y. Filed Dec. 17, 1959, Ser. No. 860,275 1 Claim. (Cl. 33-17) This invention comprises a printed garment pattern in which the cutting lines are shown as printed serrated edges, and an improved method of making the patterns to be photographed as part of the process of producing the printing plate.

The present method of producing printed garment patterns is as follows:

A separate master pattern of each garment piece is drafted in pencil upon a firm paper, one for each garment piece, on which are shown lines for cutting the fabric, fold lines commonly called place on fold lines, interior lines for sewing seams and darts, position marks fixing the position of perforations interrupting the sewing lines and dart lines and perforations for button holes, and notches for matching purposes. The pattern is then cut along the cutting lines, and the indicated notches are cut out.

After each pattern has been thus prepared, it is then reproduced upon a sheet of white paper sufiiciently large to accommodate the patterns of all the garment pieces, by tracing the outlines of the pattern on the sheet, drawing the interior sewing lines, tracing the cut-out notches, then inking tall the said lines, perforation and notch areas, or in lieu thereof, pasting on adhesive black lines, dots and notches. In addition, all instructional or other texts and data, such as cutting or sewing directions and identifications, which are to appear on the printed patterns, are reproduced upon the sheet.

The said sheet containing the reproduced master patterns of each piece of the garment, is then photographed to produce a camera negative in the usual manner in the process of producing a printing plate from which the paper patterns will be printed.

After the sheet has been thus prepared, the separate master patterns used in preparing it, are filed away and are never used again except for reference purposes.

The preparation of the reproductions of the master patterns upon the said sheet is time consuming and costly. Errors frequently occur in the tracing operations previously mentioned due to inadvertent shifting of the master patterns which during the tracing are held by weights upon the sheet. The time consumed in locating the black paper adhesive dots simulating perforations upon the sheet, has resulted in reducing the number of perforations below the number required by the dressmakers to properly establish the sewing lines on the fabric, customarily accomplished by tailors tacks passed through the pattern and the fabric at the perforation marks, which remain in the fabric after the pattern has been removed.

The method of this invention entirely eliminates any reproduction of the master patterns other than the photographic reproductions incident to making the printing plate.

To distinguish the cutting lines from the auxiliary noncutting lines such as the sewing and fold lines, the cutting lines on the present printed garment patterns are shown as either a single heavy line to be cut on or moderately heavy double lines to be out between. These distinctions have not succeeded in correcting the dressmakers error, commonly encountered, of cutting the fabric upon the wrong line.

In the printed pattern of this invention, the cutting line is shown as a serrated edge, commonly called a pinked edge, with which dressmakers have long been familiar ice as the perfect seam edge finish for fine sewing, and naturally will be associated by them with the seam edge of the garment piece. The pinked edge will further suggest to the dressmaker the advantage of cutting the fabric along it with a pinking shears to produce an edge that will not fray or ravel.

In addition, the printed pattern of this invention eliminates the sewing and dart lines of the present patterns, substituting in their place, sufiicient perforation marks to properly establish these lines on the fabric.

The only line shown on the printed pattern of this invention in addition to the pinked edge, is the fold line, which appears thereon as a straight conventional line.

Thus a contrast is established between the pinked edge and the straight edge, which will further avoid error in cutting the fabric.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 illustrates a master pattern of the front of a bodice.

FIG. 2 illustrates a master pattern of the back of the bodice.

FIG. 3 illustrates the master patterns shown in FIGS. 1, 2, mounted upon a sheet of colored paper providing a contrasting ground, a corner of each pattern being bent back to indicate such mounting.

FIG. 4 illustrates the printed pattern of FIG. 1, as finally cut, ready for distribution.

FIG. 5 illustrates the printed pattern of FIG. 2, as finally cut, ready for distribution.

Referring to the drawings:

The master patterns 5 shown in FIGS. 1, 2, are first prepared by drawing upon white paper, in pencil, the cutting and fold lines, using conventional lines, and by marking the positions of the perforations 15 for sewing seams, the perforations 16 for darts, and the notches 17. The cutting line is then cut with a pinking shears thus forming the pinked edge '8, and the fold line is cut with a regular straight shears thus forming the fold edge 10. Perforations 15, 16, and notches 17 are then cut out. All the instructional texts and other data which are to appear on the printed pattern, such as cutting and sewing directions and identifications, must be produced on the master pattern. These are omitted from the drawings.

In the same manner master patterns of each piece of the garment are prepared. When all have been completed they are mounted upon a single sheet of colored paper 6, a portion of which is illustrated in FIG. 3, spaced thereon to provide a substantial border around each pattern. The color of sheet 6 should be such as to provide a distinct contrast with the edges of the patterns 5, and a background for perforations '15, 16 and notches 17.

The master patterns so mounted on colored sheet 6 are then photographed in the usual manner for the purpose of making a printing plate from which the final patterns will be printed.

After the final pattern sheets have been printed, stacks thereof containing from 500 to 1500 sheets each, are cut by a band saw to separate the patterns of each garment piece, one from the other, in such manner as to leave a substantial solidly printed border 20 around the printed reproductions 8', 10", of pinked edge 8 and fold edge 10 of the master patterns, as illustrated in FIGS. 4, 5.

The method of this invention not only greatly reduces the present cost of manufacture of garment patterns but is also much more accurate because the pattern photographed is the original master pattern :and not a reproduction.

I claim:

The method of preparing a composite master garment pattern comprising a number of separate master patterns of component pieces of the garment, for the purpose of producing a printing plate of the composite master pattern from which paper patterns may be printed, consisting of the following steps:

making a pattern of each component piece of the garment, each upon a separate sheet of paper, upon which the cutting line and fold line of the pattern are lineally produced, the positions of intended perforations indicating sewing and dart lines and notches indicating matched places are marked; severing each of said separate sheets of patterns along its cutting line shown thereon by cuts producing a pinked edge, and along its fold line shown thereon by cutting a straight edge, and cutting out perforations and notches at the positions thereof respectively shown on said separate patterns; mounting said separate pattern sheets, prepared as aforesaid, upon a single sheet of paper having throughout its entire surface a color providing a distinct contrast with the color of said separate sheets, spacing them thereon so as to leave exposed a portion of said single sheet of substantial Width extend ing around each said separate sheet, the areas of said single sheet opposed to the said perforations and notches of said separate patterns being exposed through said perforations and notches; and photographing said separate sheets so mounted on said single sheet and the exposed portions of said single sheet for the purpose of making a printing plate thereof from which paper patterns may be printed.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Laub May 5, 1908 Laub June 30, 1908 Cohig Dec. 7, 1926 Telis Mar. 10, 1931 I-Iutter Nov. 27, 1934 Ohlsson July 2, 1935 FOREIGN PATENTS Great Britain 1932 

